Wait,
that’s not a real word? I hope my students are learning English because mine is
certainly not getting any better…English teacher problems.
A
flowers and fish weekend. The rising tide of cherry blossoms that have been
spreading north throughout Korea finally descended upon Seoul. Though I see stunning
blossoms most springs in Washington, a row of fully bloomed cherry blossom trees has to be one of the most picturesque sights in the world.
Cherry
blossoms festivals can be found throughout the country. An afternoon stroll
around Seokchon Lake in Seoul was reminiscent of the blossoms that line
the Tidal Basin. The volume of people was definitely reminiscent! But instead of a
landscape of national monuments, an island home to a popular amusement park,
Lotte World, set the scene. So...it was a little different…
Yeouido
Park, a top festival destination along the Han River, offered an energetic
atmosphere on a sunny afternoon. There was also a nighttime viewing option but I
don’t appreciate multi-colored lights illuminating the blossoms the way
Koreans do. I want da babies in all their natural majesty.
What I have been most surprised and impressed by this
spring is the citywide scattering of cherry trees. Though the festivals buzz with
excitement, it’s those moments I turn a corner to see a row of blossoms I
wasn’t expecting.
Fish would accurately capture the rest of the weekend. Saturday brunch could have been
lethal. While blowfish is a delicacy, it is also poisonous. Deaths are rare but
when my lips started to tingle I thought I had beaten the odds…oh wait…Korean
food is just spicy. Blowfish, if you’re wondering, is rather flavorless but
delightfully tender.
I’ve also had my sights set on the Noryangjin Fish Market for some time but held off until a Korean friend could help navigate it. We entered on the second
floor overlooking the vendors…it was kind of a breathtaking sight. We mazed
through colorful and unrecognizable sea creatures, both living
and dead. It was like being at an aquarium…only you get to eat everything.
Restaurants on the second level prepare your seafood purchases on the spot.
I
was chasing a certain experience…the experience of eating sanakgi (live octopus.) Live in the way that something that is chopped into
pieces is live, but no question that it was still moving. After
it self-marinated in sesame oil and salt, I closed my eyes and took a piece to
my mouth, chewing hard and fast. No, I didn't want to feel it squirming in my mouth nor did I want the suckers to latch
onto the inside of my throat and kill me. Eating seafood in Korea is not for wimps, it
seems. And since I had been the sanakgi enthusiast,
I had the honor (read: peer pressure) of eating the little head…eyes and all…
Some
days I eat fish (I'm a bit of a pesca-vegan.) Other days fish eat me. On Sunday I let a pool of large
minnows exact their revenge. As I took refuge from the chaos of Myeongdong in a
quiet café, my toes vibrated with pecking mouths feasting on a winter’s worth
of dead skin.
Other
notable fish as of late: grilled shellfish at a barbeque-style joint. Though
the restaurant had a run-down feel to it, it was easily one of the most beautiful
dinners I’ve had in Seoul. A tray tiered with stacks of shellfish of various
shapes and sizes was set on our table for a long grill-side dinner.
And
the monkfish soirée. Monkfish may be nicknamed “the poor man’s lobster” but the
dinner was not without a price tag. I’m a sucker for unique food experiences
and smoked monkfish and monkfish paté certainly met the qualifications. Most delicious
fish of the blog post.
To
round out a flish-filled weekend, a flip pong tournament (representing my
culture…I see you ‘Murica.) Also, a visit to the Filipino market, a
weekly street market where the Filipino community of Seoul gathers to sell traditional
foods and groceries. Nearly every dish contained pork, but as an experienced
vegetarian I found a way to make it work. Any culture who loves fried plantains
and coconut milk is a friend of mine.
Like jogging in the clouds!
Seokchon Lake
Before... ...After
Noryangjin Fish Market
This went in my mouth...and I'd do it again.
Still got some suction...
Grilling shellfish
Dr. Fish
A fertilized chicken egg at the Filipino market...I have to draw the line somewhere.