Allie's Got Seoul: Flish

Wait, that’s not a real word? I hope my students are learning English because mine is certainly not getting any better…English teacher problems.

A flowers and fish weekend. The rising tide of cherry blossoms that have been spreading north throughout Korea finally descended upon Seoul. Though I see stunning blossoms most springs in Washington, a row of fully bloomed cherry blossom trees has to be one of the most picturesque sights in the world.

Cherry blossoms festivals can be found throughout the country. An afternoon stroll around Seokchon Lake in Seoul was reminiscent of the blossoms that line the Tidal Basin. The volume of people was definitely reminiscent! But instead of a landscape of national monuments, an island home to a popular amusement park, Lotte World, set the scene. So...it was a little different…

Yeouido Park, a top festival destination along the Han River, offered an energetic atmosphere on a sunny afternoon. There was also a nighttime viewing option but I don’t appreciate multi-colored lights illuminating the blossoms the way Koreans do. I want da babies in all their natural majesty.

What I have been most surprised and impressed by this spring is the citywide scattering of cherry trees. Though the festivals buzz with excitement, it’s those moments I turn a corner to see a row of blossoms I wasn’t expecting.

Fish would accurately capture the rest of the weekend. Saturday brunch could have been lethal. While blowfish is a delicacy, it is also poisonous. Deaths are rare but when my lips started to tingle I thought I had beaten the odds…oh wait…Korean food is just spicy. Blowfish, if you’re wondering, is rather flavorless but delightfully tender.

I’ve also had my sights set on the Noryangjin Fish Market for some time but held off until a Korean friend could help navigate it. We entered on the second floor overlooking the vendors…it was kind of a breathtaking sight. We mazed through colorful and unrecognizable sea creatures, both living and dead. It was like being at an aquarium…only you get to eat everything. Restaurants on the second level prepare your seafood purchases on the spot.

I was chasing a certain experience…the experience of eating sanakgi (live octopus.) Live in the way that something that is chopped into pieces is live, but no question that it was still moving. After it self-marinated in sesame oil and salt, I closed my eyes and took a piece to my mouth, chewing hard and fast. No, I didn't want to feel it squirming in my mouth nor did I want the suckers to latch onto the inside of my throat and kill me. Eating seafood in Korea is not for wimps, it seems. And since I had been the sanakgi enthusiast, I had the honor (read: peer pressure) of eating the little head…eyes and all…

Some days I eat fish (I'm a bit of a pesca-vegan.) Other days fish eat me. On Sunday I let a pool of large minnows exact their revenge. As I took refuge from the chaos of Myeongdong in a quiet café, my toes vibrated with pecking mouths feasting on a winter’s worth of dead skin.

Other notable fish as of late: grilled shellfish at a barbeque-style joint. Though the restaurant had a run-down feel to it, it was easily one of the most beautiful dinners I’ve had in Seoul. A tray tiered with stacks of shellfish of various shapes and sizes was set on our table for a long grill-side dinner.

And the monkfish soirée. Monkfish may be nicknamed “the poor man’s lobster” but the dinner was not without a price tag. I’m a sucker for unique food experiences and smoked monkfish and monkfish paté certainly met the qualifications. Most delicious fish of the blog post.

To round out a flish-filled weekend, a flip pong tournament (representing my culture…I see you ‘Murica.) Also, a visit to the Filipino market, a weekly street market where the Filipino community of Seoul gathers to sell traditional foods and groceries. Nearly every dish contained pork, but as an experienced vegetarian I found a way to make it work. Any culture who loves fried plantains and coconut milk is a friend of mine.