Allie's Got Seoul: Buddhism

There is this guy, kind of famous in Asia, goes by Buddha. He has shaped my experience in the ROK in many agreeable ways. The roots of Buddhism run deep on the Korean peninsula, tracing back to the 4^th century. Today, Korea is predominately divided into three religious groupings: Buddhist, Christian, and nonreligious. However, due to the long interplay between Korean society and Buddhism, many Koreans consider themselves culturally Buddhist to some degree. Take me to the temples! I’m inspired to live a life influenced by Buddhist teachings.

I began his birthday week at the Lotus Lantern Festival in early May. The festivity culminated in an enormous parade closing off the busiest boulevard in the city. Half of Seoul lined the street to watch the parade…while the other half marched down it with their lanterns. Aside from the symbolism, from a spectator standpoint it was delightful. After the parade, Koreans and waygooks alike congregated in the main intersection for the flower party/circle dance. It has become popular with foreigners, but let’s be real, congo-lining in the middle of the street while flower petals swirl above your head is pretty awesome.

Buddha’s Birthday (5/17) is a national Korean holiday and coincided with my parent’s first day in Korea. A jetlagged day of sightseeing ended at the Jogyesa Buddhist temple. Hundreds of lanterns coming aglow isn’t a horrible way to end a tour.

More recently my path to enlightenment took me on a temple stay to get up close and personal with the temple life of monks. Certainly an experience not to be missed…but once was enough. In our temple stay outfits, I felt like I was at a slumber party. The regimented schedule of eating, sleeping and activities recalled summer camp. Inclement weather left trails too muddy to hike but also got us out the communal work. We meditated in sitting, walking, and “dancing heart” styles. Had you seen us, our synchronized motions and ch sounds, you would have thought we were a brainwashed cult. We chanted. At 4am because that’s what monks do. We practiced mandala healing through sand art, what I imagine drug rehab therapy might be like.

We also bowed. Only 108 times, each prostration representing a vow. If it doesn’t sound like much, you try it. Coming soon: a 25 minute monk-led exercise video. Jokes and sweat aside, this was the most profound and spiritually enlightening activity for me. It served as a reminder of what is truly important in life, letting my tiny stressors fall insignificant. “Through bowing, I learn how to humble myself and how to have a healthy body and mind. I bow to realize that others' lives are just as valuable as mine.”

I was affected by each and every prostration, but here are a few that stuck out:

6. I prostrate in repentance for having taken this body for granted.

12. I prostrate in repentance for being unmindful of all those who have grown, prepared, and provided my nutrition.

19. I prostrate in repentance to all those whom I have stung with hurtful words.

50. I prostrate in repentance for a lifestyle built on the suffering of other forms of life.

68. I prostrate in gratitude for coming to see the beauty of this world.

79. I prostrate in gratitude for coming to see that a heart filled with hatred and resentment is the greatest misfortune of all.

99. I prostrate as a prayer so that all beings may live in peace.

Many Buddhist temples provide lunch free of charge, a little secret I wish I had come across sooner as temple food is everything I want in a meal. It is far from “fancy” but a strict Buddhist diet is vegan and mainly organic. However, there are five strong flavors that are excluded from Buddhist cuisine, including garlic and green onion. Bibimbap is most common (what more could I really ask for?) but on our temple stay we experienced quite an array. Rice, soup, and kimchi (the givens) to compliment the japchae, jeon, and various sautéed veggies and salads. Guests eat as much as they like so long as not a morsel is wasted and dishes are returned clean.

Being an observant member of the Seoul vegetarian community led to the opportunity to review a temple food restaurant. Temple food restaurants tend to be upscale. The food is vegan, organic, carefully prepared and meticulously presented. Course after course, they didn’t stop coming. Needless to say, I didn’t eat as modestly as a monk.

Living in a rather affluent area, I frequently encounter the materialistic and image-driven side of Korea. Koreans are shopping until they drop and buying brands that send a certain message (remember that song...Gangnam Style?) Consumer debt is widespread. Though Buddhism plays a strong hand in Korean culture, my experience in Mokdong has been minimally Buddhist.

Until visiting Asia my imagination was the only context I had for Buddhism. In my mind, Buddhist monks were sacred, mystical, nonhuman. Living in Seoul has given me a bit more perspective about Buddhism in the modern world. How off-putting it was the first time I saw a monk on his smartphone riding the subway! Another monk, who shall remained unnamed, even slipped that he was known to sip a little makgeolli outside of the temple from time to time. If your ever see a bald person suspiciously eating meat at a Korean restaurant…reality.

I’m not ready to convert but in the bali bali of Seoul life I welcome Buddhist thought and practice. Through Buddhism one can live a positive and fulfilling life.