There is this guy, kind of famous in Asia, goes by Buddha. He has shaped
my experience in the ROK in many agreeable ways. The roots of Buddhism run deep
on the Korean peninsula, tracing back to the 4th century. Today,
Korea is predominately divided into three religious groupings: Buddhist,
Christian, and nonreligious. However, due to the long interplay between Korean
society and Buddhism, many Koreans consider themselves culturally Buddhist to
some degree. Take me to the temples! I’m inspired to live a life influenced by
Buddhist teachings.
I began his birthday week at the Lotus Lantern Festival in early May.
The festivity culminated in an enormous parade closing off the busiest
boulevard in the city. Half of Seoul lined the street to watch the parade…while
the other half marched down it with their lanterns. Aside from the symbolism, from
a spectator standpoint it was delightful. After the parade, Koreans and waygooks alike congregated in the main
intersection for the flower party/circle dance. It has become popular with
foreigners, but let’s be real, congo-lining in the middle of the street while
flower petals swirl above your head is pretty awesome.
Buddha’s Birthday (5/17) is a national Korean holiday and coincided with
my parent’s first day in Korea. A jetlagged day of sightseeing ended at the
Jogyesa Buddhist temple. Hundreds of lanterns coming aglow isn’t a horrible way
to end a tour.
More recently my path to enlightenment took me on a temple stay to get
up close and personal with the temple life of monks. Certainly an experience not
to be missed…but once was enough. In our temple stay outfits, I felt like I was
at a slumber party. The regimented schedule of eating, sleeping and activities recalled
summer camp. Inclement weather left trails too muddy to hike but also got us
out the communal work. We meditated in sitting, walking, and “dancing heart”
styles. Had you seen us, our synchronized motions and ch sounds, you would have thought we were a brainwashed cult. We
chanted. At 4am because that’s what monks do. We practiced mandala healing through
sand art, what I imagine drug rehab therapy might be like.
We also bowed. Only 108 times, each prostration representing a vow. If
it doesn’t sound like much, you try it. Coming soon: a 25 minute monk-led
exercise video. Jokes and sweat aside, this was the most profound and spiritually
enlightening activity for me. It served as a reminder of what is truly
important in life, letting my tiny stressors fall insignificant. “Through
bowing, I learn how to humble myself and how to have a healthy body and mind. I
bow to realize that others' lives are just as valuable as mine.”
I was affected by each and every prostration, but here are a few that
stuck out:
6. I prostrate in repentance for having
taken this body for granted.
12. I prostrate in repentance for being
unmindful of all those who have grown, prepared, and provided my nutrition.
19. I prostrate in repentance to all those whom I have stung with
hurtful words.
50. I prostrate in repentance for a
lifestyle built on the suffering of other forms of life.
68.
I prostrate in gratitude for coming to see the beauty of this world.
79. I prostrate in gratitude for coming to
see that a heart filled with hatred and resentment is the greatest misfortune
of all.
99. I prostrate as a prayer so that all
beings may live in peace.
Many Buddhist temples provide lunch free of charge, a little secret I wish
I had come across sooner as temple food is everything I want in a meal. It is
far from “fancy” but a strict Buddhist diet is vegan and mainly organic. However,
there are five strong flavors that are excluded from Buddhist cuisine,
including garlic and green onion. Bibimbap
is most common (what more could I really ask for?) but on our temple stay we
experienced quite an array. Rice, soup, and kimchi
(the givens) to compliment the japchae, jeon, and various sautéed veggies and
salads. Guests eat as much as they like so long as not a morsel is wasted and dishes
are returned clean.
Being an observant member of the Seoul vegetarian community led to the
opportunity to review a temple food restaurant. Temple food restaurants tend to
be upscale. The food is vegan, organic, carefully prepared and meticulously
presented. Course after course, they didn’t stop coming. Needless to say, I
didn’t eat as modestly as a monk.
Living in a rather affluent area, I frequently encounter the
materialistic and image-driven side of Korea. Koreans are shopping until they
drop and buying brands that send a certain message (remember that song...Gangnam
Style?) Consumer debt is widespread. Though Buddhism plays a strong hand in
Korean culture, my experience in Mokdong has been minimally Buddhist.
Until visiting Asia my imagination was the only context I had for
Buddhism. In my mind, Buddhist monks were sacred, mystical, nonhuman. Living in
Seoul has given me a bit more perspective about Buddhism in the modern world.
How off-putting it was the first time I saw a monk on his smartphone riding the
subway! Another monk, who shall remained unnamed, even slipped that he was known
to sip a little makgeolli outside of
the temple from time to time. If your ever see a bald person suspiciously eating
meat at a Korean restaurant…reality.
I’m not ready to convert but in the bali bali of Seoul life I welcome Buddhist thought and practice. Through Buddhism one can live a positive and fulfilling life.
I’m not ready to convert but in the bali bali of Seoul life I welcome Buddhist thought and practice. Through Buddhism one can live a positive and fulfilling life.
Beomeosa in Busan
An early morning at Haedong Yonggungsa in Busan
Sunrise at Haedong Yonggungsa
Lotus Lantern Parade
Flower Party/Circle Dance
Yakchunsa altar in Jeju
Chilbulam Hermitage in Gyeongju
Ancient stone carvings at Chilbulam Hermitage
Hwagyesa Temple Stay in Bukhansan (Seoul)
Slumber party!
One last moment with our spiritual leader
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