Allie's Got Seoul: The Magical World

This is a high-pressure post. How do I begin to explain Hongdae? There are so many layers. Hongdae colored my first impression of Korea; upon landing I had been in my apartment no longer than 30 minutes before shuttled off to Hongdae. It’s only appropriate that six months later I draft this post at a well-respected café in Hongdae while sipping on a pour-over (black, might I add!)

Hongdae is the term for the area surrounding Hongik University, a prestigious fine arts university in Korea. It is known for its eclectic and artsy vibe, vivid night life, urban music scene, boutique shopping, cafés galore, and all sorts of oddities. If you want to see something uniquely Korean or maybe something just strange, Hongdae is a good bet.

I’m talking about the Mageolli Man, a nocturnal dude with an animated face who pushes a cart full of mageolli through the park and on the streets. The gigantic, furry and possibly dead dog that accompanies the cotton candy vendor. The sad and dirty Garfield who wanders from one depressing street curb to the next. The Trick Eye Museum dedicated to amusing optical illusions.

Hongik University station exit 9 is the infamous meeting place in Hongdae. So popular, sometimes you have to wait in line to exit the subway. Luckily Hongdae is expansive enough for everyone to disperse above ground. I personally prefer the less neon, more hipster area near exit 8. Here I wander the backstreets, bumping into the cutest boutiques and independent coffee shops.

The park is another widely known meeting place. With no open container laws, it’s an easy place to enjoy convenience mart maekju (beer) or soju (Korean rice liquor so cheap I don’t understand why they even bother charging for it.) On the weekends, the park holds an arts flea market where you can pick up a range of crafts, jewelry, trinkets, and second-hand goods. Random bands and street performers sometimes use the park as a venue as well. And the park is even home to the illusive silent disco, where participants jam along to music only audible through synced headphones with balloons tied on for a bobbing effect. I have yet to experience this but I sure hope I do!

Within my first week in Korea I took an informal tour of Hongdae that served as a great orientation to such an exciting and confusing area. Bethany and I never met up with that dude again but we learned a handful of secrets…I’m not gonna pretend I wasn’t jotting a few notes. Our guide showed us a promotional ice bar with complimentary beer and how to send free postcards from the tourist kiosk (unfortunately these were both short-term promotions and oddly enough I rarely see postcards for sale in Seoul.) He took us down a street with Super Mario characters on every lamppost, pointed out notable themed cafés, and familiarized us with the array of street food options.

The most epic of nights take place in Hongdae. You’ll find a diversity of restaurants, Korean and foreign. Swanky cocktail and wine bars. Homier bars…the unlimited peanuts or popcorn win me over every time. Pubs big and loud. Mageolli bars...though it’s the pajeon I’m a sucker for. A selection of clubs, all types of music. Cocktails in a bag (think Capri-Suns for adults.) Noraebangs (karaoke rooms) and sheesha (hookah.) I even know a rare craft brewery. And if there wasn’t already enough to occupy yourself, nights are a lively time to shop as well. It can all add up, but Hongdae is generally cheaper than other concentrations of nightlife. I’m not a night owl but the thought of a 2am last call seems comically early these days. When emerging from one of these venues in Hongdae you just might find yourself greeting the sunrise.

Mokdong has been a great home the past six and a half months, for many reasons. If I were ever to live anyplace else in Seoul, I would need to ensure easy access to Hongdae. Cool neighborhoods are scattered all over the city, but Hongdae is the biggest concentration. And in the after-subway hours, a cab ride home is affordable. Over six months of exploring and I still wander down an unchartered street and bump into something new, every single visit I make. Any spare afternoon I can ensure I will be entertained by an adventure through Hongdae.