This is a high-pressure post. How do I begin to explain Hongdae? There
are so many layers. Hongdae colored my first impression of Korea; upon landing I
had been in my apartment no longer than 30 minutes before shuttled off to
Hongdae. It’s only appropriate that six months later I draft this post at a
well-respected café in Hongdae while sipping on a pour-over (black, might I
add!)
Hongdae is the term for the area surrounding Hongik University, a
prestigious fine arts university in Korea. It is known for its eclectic and
artsy vibe, vivid night life, urban music scene, boutique shopping, cafés
galore, and all sorts of oddities. If you want to see something uniquely Korean
or maybe something just strange, Hongdae is a good bet.
I’m talking about the Mageolli Man, a nocturnal dude with an animated
face who pushes a cart full of mageolli
through the park and on the streets. The gigantic, furry and possibly dead dog that
accompanies the cotton candy vendor. The sad and dirty Garfield who wanders
from one depressing street curb to the next. The Trick Eye Museum dedicated to amusing
optical illusions.
Hongik University station exit 9 is the infamous meeting place in
Hongdae. So popular, sometimes you have to wait in line to exit the subway.
Luckily Hongdae is expansive enough for everyone to disperse above ground. I
personally prefer the less neon, more hipster area near exit 8. Here I wander
the backstreets, bumping into the cutest boutiques and independent coffee
shops.
The park is another widely known meeting place. With no open container
laws, it’s an easy place to enjoy convenience mart maekju (beer) or soju
(Korean rice liquor so cheap I don’t understand why they even bother charging
for it.) On the weekends, the park holds an arts flea market where you can pick
up a range of crafts, jewelry, trinkets, and second-hand goods. Random bands
and street performers sometimes use the park as a venue as well. And the park
is even home to the illusive silent disco, where participants jam along to
music only audible through synced headphones with balloons tied on for a
bobbing effect. I have yet to experience this but I sure hope I do!
Within my first week in Korea I took an informal tour of Hongdae that
served as a great orientation to such an exciting and confusing area. Bethany
and I never met up with that dude again but we learned a handful of secrets…I’m
not gonna pretend I wasn’t jotting a few notes. Our guide showed us a promotional
ice bar with complimentary beer and how to send free postcards from the tourist
kiosk (unfortunately these were both short-term promotions and oddly enough I
rarely see postcards for sale in Seoul.) He took us down a street with Super
Mario characters on every lamppost, pointed out notable themed cafés, and familiarized
us with the array of street food options.
The most epic of nights take place in Hongdae. You’ll find a diversity
of restaurants, Korean and foreign. Swanky cocktail and wine bars. Homier
bars…the unlimited peanuts or popcorn win me over every time. Pubs big and
loud. Mageolli bars...though it’s the
pajeon I’m a sucker for. A selection
of clubs, all types of music. Cocktails in a bag (think Capri-Suns for adults.)
Noraebangs (karaoke rooms) and sheesha (hookah.) I even know a rare
craft brewery. And if there wasn’t already enough to occupy yourself, nights
are a lively time to shop as well. It can all add up, but Hongdae is generally
cheaper than other concentrations of nightlife. I’m not a night owl but the
thought of a 2am last call seems comically early these days. When emerging from
one of these venues in Hongdae you just might find yourself greeting the
sunrise.
Mokdong has been a great home the past six and a half months, for many
reasons. If I were ever to live anyplace else in Seoul, I would need to ensure
easy access to Hongdae. Cool neighborhoods are scattered all over the city, but
Hongdae is the biggest concentration. And in the after-subway hours, a cab ride
home is affordable. Over six months of exploring and I still wander down an
unchartered street and bump into something new, every single visit I make. Any
spare afternoon I can ensure I will be entertained by an adventure through
Hongdae.
Garfield, always so sad...
Symbolic of all things random and eclectic that Hongdae has to offer
First encounter with the Mageolli Man
One of countless Hongdae streets at night
A friend's installation art project at the old abandoned Hongdae elementary school
A favorite vegan spot in Hongdae
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