Dynamic Busan

Cities in Korea have all been paired with adjectives and…words? Hi Seoul. Colorful Daegu. Good Chungju. Happy Suwon. Fly Incheon. Amenity Seocheon. Better Life Yeonsu. Fantasia Bucheon. Jump Namwon and Jump Changnyeong. It’s Daejeon. Let’s Goyang. Alright alright, Let’s Goyang is pretty good, but seriously. Hire me.

On a rare three-day weekend I headed to Dyanmic Busan, Korea’s next biggest city of 3.7 million. Located on the southeastern coast of Korea, it’s the fifth busiest shipping port worldwide. Busan is also home of the Shinsegae Centum City Department Store known as the largest shopping complex (mall) in the world. But it’s summer when Busan really comes alive as Koreans flock to the beaches. Busan is unmistakably more relaxed than Seoul.

The weekend began bright and early on the Mugunghwa ‘slow train’ leaving from Yeoungdeoungpo Station. I’ve finally admitted that I’m a morning person. Even if I’m tired I feel much more in tune with myself when I wake with the sun. Trains are also my favorite way tot travel. A forced excuse to relax and soak up the scenery of rural towns, farms and mountains. Thankfully there were noraebangs on board, heaven forbid I go four and half hours without karaoke! So traisian.

At Busan Station, Caitlin and I proudly figured out how to use the lockers to stash our bags for a few hours. The lockers were fingerprint protected. It’s not just me, this is awesome, right?

First stop, a stroll through Yongdosan Park to reach Busan Tower. The tower isn’t particularly attractive in and of itself but the 360° views were awesome! I need my aerial view. Were we just tired or was the tower swaying…a lot? Either way, time to come down…

The downtown area of Nampodong is home to stores, vendors, street food, and entertainment. The annual Busan International Film Festival takes place nearby so we made sure to reach the epicenter at BIFF Square.

Eventually we found ourselves at the Jagalchi Fish Market, the largest fish market in Korea. Again, an incredible variety in species. A dried fish market and numerous restaurants occupied the second floor. Many restaurants persuasively fought for our business but only one ajumma could win. Raw fish and other cooked seafood, plenty of veggies, a beautiful view of the harbor.

Seoulites told me the accent in Busan is stronger. I initially thought the waitress said hello in Spanish (because that makes sense) but quickly realized she must be offering me ‘cola’ (which also doesn’t happen in Korea.) Wrong again. It was just water, which in Seoul sounds like mul but in Busan sounded like mola.

Gwangalli Beach was the recipe for evening relaxation. Gwangan bridge and a glowing skyline framed the coast. We walked along the beach, enjoyed haemul pajeon on the sand, and sipped persimmon wine while being mesmerized by the changing colors of the bridge.

Our hostel was adorable, despite a resident bunny who looked far too familiar to an evil, cord-eating bunny I used to know. The bedding was pink and frilly enough for a princess. However, roommates can make or break any hostel experience. And since it was apparently of the utmost urgency to rustle plastic bags before 7am, we didn’t catch up on sleep as planned.

Saturday morning took us to the mountains to Beomeosa Temple, the foremost temple in Busan. A combination of subway and buses rendered the trip a bit lengthy but the temple was scenic and peaceful. After a while, temples and palaces begin to look quite similar in Korea/Asia. Sitting aside a bubbling brook while drinking homemade shikhye on a perfect weathered day was most enjoyable. A few chatty Koreans stopped to talk to/at us. As a result we learned of the free lunch served at the temple. Bring on the bibimbap and doenjeong jjigae, though Caitlin would probably have preferred to not walk up the temple hill for a third time…

My original itinerary had us visiting the fortress and a second unique temple in the area, however, lack of appropriate footwear became a hindrance. Instead, we journeyed back south to Taejeongdae, a park spectacular cliff views. Unfortunately, the perfect day turned overcast and we were also a bit pressed for time. The views from Taejeongdae warrant a revisit on a clearer, less rushed day.

Exhausted is an understatement about how we felt by the evening. Luckily, Busan has quite the assortment of jimjilbangs to choose from. The rumored view at Vesta Spa ultimately won us over. Unfortunately by the time we arrived it was dark and the ocean was an invisible black abyss at night. Caitlin and I baked ourselves in a clay oven and soaked in hot mineral baths, full relaxation mode, as city lights twinkled below. The most memorable feature of this particular spa was the outdoor hot tub. To top it off, an adorable Korean toddler with his fishing rod, learning English letters on a steamed up window. At the spa, we tried the notable Busan mil myeon for dinner, a thin and cold wheat-based noodle.

“Are we crazy?” I thought as our Sunday morning alarm rung at 4:30am. It was still dark but we hopped in a cab to Haedong Yonggungsa Temple to arrive before the sun. The chants of Buddhist monks at a gorgeous coastal temple as we awaited the new day proved I was of a completely sane mind. The sun shone pink as we meandered through the temple, greeting Buddhas big and small. We even paid our respects to the Pagoda of Traffic Safety, because let's be real, we live in a city with questionable driving.

A stroll along the popular Haeundae Beach followed. In the summer, you can hardly see the sand due to hoards of people, blankets, and umbrellas. However, on an early April morning the crowds were quite thin. Before returning to the hostel for a free breakfast, we passed through Haeundae Market which was only just beginning to stir.

With time to spare, I explored Dongbaek Park on the far end of Haeundae Beach. Though only trying to maximize a few remaining hours in Busan, I was awestruck by the scenery. Busan seems greener and more natural than Seoul. Even the small touches, like potted flowers on the streets. A boardwalk hugging the coastline offered views of striking coastline, a little lighthouse, the Nurimaru APEC building, and the Haeundae skyline. My impression was most likely colored by yet another perfect weathered morning. Winter is firmly behind us and I’ve realized just how giddy a sunny spring day can make me.

Our remaining few hours ended where they began, wandering about Nampodong, hoping for postcards but at the very least securing a schneeballen. Don’t ask me why, but this German treat has gained popularity in Korea. Schneeballen? I’m not sure myself but perhaps I can give you an idea. Fortune cookie loosely folded into a ball, covered in chocolate, and then crushed with a wooden hammer. Weird but that’s how I like it.

The train ride home via the high speed KTX only took three hours, but due to my exhaustion level it felt longer than the slow train. A full and fantastic weekend. Back to home sweet Seoul.