Allie's Got Seoul: A Merry Little Christmas

It’s not about the day, it’s about the season. December 25^th is just one of many wonderful days to uphold countless cherished Christmas traditions. For the past several weeks I have dutifully celebrated the holiday season, from evenings of paper snowflake making and cookie decorating with my Christmas-loving coworkers to overplaying Christmas albums I had thankfully loaded onto my computer years ago. (Kenny G’s holiday albums and The Nutcracker soundtrack took center stage this year, per usual.) I have cuddled up with a kitten, a book, and a cup of holiday-flavored tea. I successfully rounded up the coworkers to join me at a concert of Handel’s Messiah. Few things are more Christmas-y than this masterpiece and the Hallelujah chorus takes me straight back to our old high school tradition. I’m celebrating to the fullest!

Like every year, I have ambitious plans for making elaborate displays of Christmas cookies to spread the Christmas cheer. This year I may actually have a decent excuse as to why it didn’t quite happen as I always envision. Since baking is not traditional to the Korean diet, most kitchens are not equipped with ovens. We are quite lucky to have a toaster oven and I’ve tried to make it work like a full-sized oven as much as possible. I have learned through several…practice batches…that I need to adjust the time and temperature in the toaster oven. I did end up baking some decent snickerdoodles, if you don’t mind an outer layer of charred cinnamon-sugar! To further complicate my cookie-baking endeavors, we don’t have an electric mixer. But it can still be done and done it was. I have the right arm of a football player to show for it! Despite my troubles, I still managed some mildly cute gift bags full of Christmas-y tea and cookies.

Christmas is not as major of a holiday as it is in the US, despite a considerable Christian population in South Korea. Certainly everywhere I look there are Christmas decorations. It seems like South Korea doesn’t miss a chance to participate in holiday consumerism. Carols are playing in every café and shop, even at the gym! What’s more motivating than exercising to Jingle Bells? However, Christmas is yet ANOTHER holiday in this country largely geared toward couples. Santa Claus does stop at some Korean apartments (sorry, no chimneys!) but it seems he comes bearing fewer gifts than he does in America. Most people have the day off from work, though many shops remained open. Small family gatherings are common, but they aren’t nearly as much of a to-do as they are in America.

Having experienced a few highs and lows during Thanksgiving, I didn’t know what to expect as the actual day rolled around. A great friend gave me some wise advice that I have been taking to heart this season. She said, “Don't get the holiday blues-- you have infinite holidays in Arlington, but probably only one in Seoul!” While infinite might be stretching it ever so slightly, the sentiment was right on the money. I intended to let this advice set the tone for the season.

It really began to feel like Christmas late on Christmas Eve when Bethany surprised me with the most artsy handmade Christmas card, mix CD, and bibimbap cookbook. It was such a lovely and unexpected gift. It got me so excited for Christmas that I couldn’t fall asleep until well after two…and I wasn’t even expecting a visit from Santa in the morning! I woke up to a white Christmas, despite no indication of snow on my weather report…a Christmas miracle you might say. My Christmas Day began and ended with phone calls back home. Due to the time difference I enjoyed my Christmas morning celebrating Christmas Eve with my aunts, uncles, cousins, and grandmother as I sipped a mint mocha at a café down the street. In stark contrast to my peaceful, coffee-sipping morning, it sounded a little rambunctious over there, but nonetheless a good time and I surely wish I could have been there! Later that evening I returned to the same café to open presents on Christmas ‘morning’ with my parents. I love how I can always here the excitement in my Dad's voice when I talk to him.

A little last minute Christmas shopping and cooking was in order before heading to the Christmas party hosted by my coworkers. A good friend who lives outside of Seoul came to our festivities as my guest. The food was great (by request I made the spinach ‘dip’ again, as well as Oreo truffles and a soju cocktail). The wine flowed. The conversation was joyous. I got to watch 28-year-old men be engrossed by Lego assembly. The games were merry (I dominated in Apples to Apples…not a familiar feeling, actually). And the white elephant exchange was a riot. I hadn’t participated in one in such a long time but I found it much more spirited than traditional gift giving. I contributed Uniqlo's ‘heattech’ ladies spandex with distinct butt pockets along with a re-gifted store-bought pastry. Other highlights included a stuffed possum, hats, chocolate and beer. As for the lowlights, salt and a bag of potatoes. And those were actually two separate gifts! I was quite happy to open a bottle of wine that was unfortunately stolen from me shortly after. But by the luck of the draw, I was able to steal it back on its third and final steal, permanently securing it in my possession!

This Christmas was unlike any other I have experienced but I really did enjoy myself. I came in with no expectations and left as merry as ever. Christmas is so much about who you spend it with and I was lucky to spend it with some great people. I was concerned I would feel like I was being left out of the holiday festivities at home. Instead of missing out, I sort of felt I just skipped Christmas this year since I didn't participate in my usual traditions. Christmas away from home was something that I knew I would have to give up upon deciding to spend the year in Seoul, but no matter how much of a bummer, it has been well worth the trade.

Now Christmas is officially ‘over’…except that it’s not! I’m not finished celebrating. If you’re one who finds this annoying…I don’t care! The carols are still ringing and you can’t stop me. Thursday evening I’m hosting my Korean friends for a big Christmas dinner. It’ll be fun to make a big deal out of Christmas all over again and ensure they have celebrated properly.